12V 16-Channel Relay interface board, and each one needs 15-20mA Driver Current
Equipped with high-current relay, AC250V 10A ; DC30V 12A
Standard interface that can be controlled directly by microcontroller (Arduino , 8051, AVR, PIC, DSP, ARM, ARM, MSP433, TTL logic)
Indication LED's for Relay output status
Description: Overview. This is a 12V 16-Channel Relay interface board, Be able to control various appliances, and other equipments with large current. It can be controlled directly by Micro-controller (Arduino , 8051, AVR, PIC, DSP, ARM, ARM, MSP430, TTL logic).Features; 12V 16-Channel Relay interface board, and each one needs 15-20mA Driver Current; Equipped with high-current relay, AC250V 10A ; DC30V 10A; Standard interface that can be controlled directly by microcontroller (Arduino , 8051, AVR, PIC, DSP, ARM, ARM, MSP430, TTL logic); Indication LED's for Relay output status
★★★★97 real customer reviews average rating: 4 stars (scroll to see all)
4 Stars By Darrell F. Thayer on 2013-01-24 Great product - here are some missing (measured) specifications I have had a hard time getting accurate (correct) specifications from SainSmart, so I wired it up and took measurements.
So here are some specifications that we can all use:
Overview: 1. The 12VDC input requires > 500mA. 2. The drive to each control input pin must "sink" 3mA when low (low = relay ON).
By the way, this is a great product - awesome bang for the buck! Note the price has gone up (was $23.69) ... less "awesome" but still "Good" bang for the buck.
***** Input Power (12 VDC input)***** - About 8 mA is required with all relays off. - Each relay requires about 30 mA when on. - So max supply current is 8 mA + (16 x 30 mA) = 488 mA (actual measured was 500 mA) - Because one may use the board's +5 VDC output (2 pins) to power an Arduino/PIC circuit, use a 12V power supply that can provide MORE than 500mA (depending on your circuit's requirements). - Note that the switching regulator on the Relay Board should somewhat efficiently (say 70%?) convert the board's 5V power usage to 12 V power input requirements. For example: 200mA at +5VDC (1 Watt) does NOT mean the +12V supply needs to supply an additional 200 mA also. This is because 1 W of power from the +12V supply only requires about 83 mA ( 12 V x 83 mA = 1 W ); however at say 70% efficiency of the 5 V regulator, this goes up to about 120 mA (83 mA / 0.7) but NOT the full 200 mA.
NOTE: The best way to discover what 12 V supply is needed (its max current rating) is to ACTUALLY MEASURE the 12 V input current while using a "test supply" that can more than handle worst case (with all relays ON) then buy the supply that meets your needs. Always use a modern "switching" supply (wall wart) because they are smaller, way more efficient, generate little heat, and normally use much less "vampire power".
- The baord's LM2576 (+5V) voltage regulator is rated at 3 Amps; however, one should not push it this hard. The circuits powered by the 5 V supply on the Relay Board appear to only be the LED side of the opto-isolators. Driving an input control line low turns on an opto-isolator LED ... turning on its relay. Each opto-isolator LED seems to require about 3 mA (for a total of 3 mA x 16 = 48 mA). This should leave you with at least many hundreds of mA available to power your circuits off of the relay board's 5V output pins (two of them on the connector).
***** Input control pins ***** - Grounding an input control pin (logic low) turns on the associated relay. - The circuit driving the input control pin must be able to "sink" (drive logic low) about 3 mA of current (easy for most PIC/Arduino output pins). *** CAUTION *** When a pin is NOT driven low, it "floats" to nearly the +5 V that drives the opto-isolators. This means that the driving circuit (Arduino/PIC) must either be also powered by +5V, or if powered by the now common 3.3V (or less!), its output pins must be "5 Volt Tolerant" (see your micro-controller pin specs). Another option is use of a "5V tolerant serial port expander" chip like an MCP23018 (I2C interface) or MCP23S18 (SPI interface) ... where just a few micro-controller pins give you 16 I/O pins. These can be powered by 3.3 V or 5 V. They are a bit complex, but a simple "software bit banged" I2C or SPI interface can be used to control them. Finally, one could use little signal transistors (2N3904) for this isolation from the 5 V (MCU pin -to- a say 2.7K resistor -to- transistor base, emitter to ground, collector to relay board input control pin).
5 Stars By Devin R. Olsen on 1969-12-31 so this thing not only worked great, but turns out to be a LOT of ... Ok, so this thing not only worked great, but turns out to be a LOT of fun heh. In about 20 mins with a fresh sketch on my Arduino, I was able to get this thing flashing and closing/opening gates with intricate patterns within milliseconds from one another; sounded like a box of rattle snakes.
That said, never having played with a relay there are things you need to know if you are new as well. The power to the unit does not bring power to each channel as well, it is only used to open/close the channel gates nothing more. It is up to you to also bring power to each channel (aka the middle slot out of the three slots on each channel) and then choose either left or right slot (always on, always off) to feed power the device in question. So again, you must feed power to each channel through the middle slot per channel, then choose either left or right slot to bring the power back out to a device.
I have a single 12v power adapter I've connected to a breadboard, then from the breadboard sent power to the relay's main power as well as 10 channels.
4 Stars By Sonoma's Davey on 2014-05-26 Hardly more expensive than the relays themselves I bought this to use with the Raspberry Pi. It comes with absolutely no documentation at all, either in the package or on the manufacturer's Web site, and therefore it's taken me quite a while of puzzling through Google research to figure out how to use it. There are some answered questions in the AlumiGogo product description that have been very helpful as well.
My configuration is that I use a 12v power supply to power the board (which powers the relay coils), and from that the board derives 5 volts to run its electronics. I am using this 5v to power the Raspberry Pi by connecting the 5v pin from the relay board's header to the 5v pin of the GPIO header on the Pi. I'm not using the standard Pi power connector. For each relay that I want to control, I'm using a 1K resistor between a GPIO pin on the Pi and one of the control pins on the relay board. When I turn the GPIO pin off, the board energizes the relay; turning the GPIO pin on releases the relay. (That seems a little backwards to me, but it works fine. I can control my load either way, because the relays have both NO and NC contacts.) I can control the GPIO, and thus the relays, from Python. I'm trying it control it from Java directly, but that's been hard for me to get working. The Python libraries have been easy for me to figure out. I'm hoping that eventually I'll figure out the Java as well.
The product design and build quality both seem to be first rate. The price is excellent -- you could scarcely buy the 16 bare relays for the cost of this board. But I have to knock off one star because of the complete lack of documentation.
5 Stars By Nathan K. Price on 2014-12-06 Inexpensive, but did not feel cheap. I misread ... Inexpensive, but did not feel cheap. I misread the wiring diagram on them at first, but that was my fault for not really understanding the relay diagram. The pin in the middle toggles from one side to the other based on power. If the relay is energized it will connect the circuit opposite what it on the board. Once I cured my ignorance on this topic through the magic of the internet, this board did everything I needed and worked perfectly. I was able to drive it with a Raspberry Pi using two ULN2003 chips and a 12VDC power supply (to power the relay controller) with a 5VDC regulator to feed voltage for the individual relays from the ICs to the relay controller. Everything is labeled clearly, but the header pins on the board are pins, not sockets, so keep that in mind when deciding how you're going to hook it up. There are plenty of options here on AlumiGogo which work perfectly.
4 Stars By Ronald J. Rossman Jr. on 2015-04-08 Good board that works well Good board that works well. Just note if you're using with a RaspberryPi, you'll want to get: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWYS9BA/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_18 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWC4BHS/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_16 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0092CRK5A/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_20
so you can interface the the board with the GPIO's (the rasp pi's GPIO's are too weak to run the board directly). Once you set it up though, it's a nice board. The only issue I had was running my Christmas lights off of it, and that was only because I was using PWM and had it modulated to provide a fade.. I had too many lights off of the one relay (using 6 channels so a total of 6 relays in use) and would get a night or two nights use out of the one relay before it would stick in the on or off position. The other 5 relays held in fine even though they were being cycled at a rate of like 70+ cycles a second for a couple hours a night.
4 Stars By Dana Dinsmore on 2017-10-12 Good AFTER I fixed the solder short Worked OK, but only on 15 channels, one channel had a solder short across the output of the ULN2003. I picked it off with a pair of tweezers and now all 16 channels work. Here is a clarification on the operating currents. Total 12V current i(f all relays are on) is 508mA. Here is the breakdown on the operating currents: Q current of the board: 5mA. Relay coils: 27.6mA each, opto-drive: 3.8mA each. The 3.8mA is a sink current, (that means your uP board has to SINK 3.8mA on each control pin when it is low).
If give this board 5 stars for value, but only 3 stars for quality since there was a holding issue, and the board was obviously not tested.
4 Stars By CPGEEK on 2017-09-15 Will work with Raspberry Pi Works great! missing one star for lack of documentation. In order to have control work with Raspberry Pi. You can add a 1.4k resistor inline with gpio output to relay board. this will allow the relay board to sense high and low output. your controls will be inverted but that is easily fixed on the software side. Side Note: Webiopi will be your best friend for IOT setup with this relay board!!
5 Stars By Muddy on 2016-01-08 Excellent Quality! Don't hesitate - this info is only if you have trouble, and for the manufacturer: I fixed the 1 bad channel! It wasn't an optoisolator chip (replaced), it was a single bad resistor in the SMT cluster chip, so I just cut the trace and soldered one to +5 and opto input on the bottom of the board. No problem. SMT can be so fickle. Ha! Thanks for a great product! This is my 2nd board, FYI.
5 Stars By Ernest Galvan on 2016-11-16 SainSmart has rather good quality, PCB material is good (thick enough not ... Another board that has been added to feed my growing "addiction" to the Raspberry Pi and Arduino "habit". SainSmart has rather good quality, PCB material is good (thick enough not to bend like some other cheapy China stuff), and the soldering is well done. This particular 16-channel relay board is being used to "play" with heavier lighting loads. No, they aren't;t aerospace quality, but SainSmart is a couple cuts above most other China manufactures.
5 Stars By AlumiGogo Customer on 2016-04-04 Perfect for an Arduino controlled Xmas light display. I really like this board. With something like this, there is no reason to build it myself and consider that time and aggravation. I bought one of these to control a Christmas light display with an Arduino Uno. I recently bought another to increase the channels available to me. This board works very well for me for this application. I like that it uses optocouplers and also that it provides a 5V supply that I can use to power the Arduino. The only complaint that I can offer is the noise of the relays in my application - which not a fault of the product. That's just the nature of mechanical relays. It's tough to beat the functionality of this and the low price. Works great!